In
1683 Cornelis
de Bruyn
(*), a
native of the Hague (Den Haag in the Netherlands or Holland),
stopped
at St. Chrysostomos monastery to the south of the Kyrenia range before
scaling the ruins of Buffavento, and then following the mountain ridge
to the west (evidently
by way of Vouno and the Kakoscala Pass),
descending eventually to Bellapais
Abbey
set amongst the citrus groves:
'The next morning we journeyed towards the convent called De
la Paix,
said to have been built by the Templars. The road is carried with great
difficulty across the mountains: at last one sees close to one the convent
pleasantly situated in a wood, orange trees, olives, palm and other
fruit trees surround it, and above them all towers a very tall cypress.
In the distance is seen the village of Sternia (Kyrenia, Girne), and
close by it, on the shore, a fine old castle. Some mountains lie in
the background.'

De
Bruyn describes (Cobham's translation) the ruins when they were more
complete than they are at present (**): "The entrance
gate is remarkably high, quite the height of eight men (sic), and nine
palms thick. It is a kind of fortress in itself and pretty well entire.
Passing this gate you turn to the left, and about twenty paces further
on pass a second gate. On its cornices are carved in marble three different
coats of arms
.
To the right of this gate you mount twenty-seven steps, nearly all ruinous.
Next you cross a large open space where are a few trees, and twenty-eight
paces farther on come to a building composed of four great arcades,
to the left of which is a fine square apartment, now unroofed; again
you pass through another room and enter the cloister, a quadrangle of
great beauty and dignity, and as fair and whole as if it were but just
finished.

Between
the two first columns at the entrance of the garden there is a fine
marble
cistern. It is in the form of a tomb, and carved around it is a wreath
which a little child on either side holds up with its hands, one of
the children is somewhat injured and the other is headless, and in other
parts the tomb is mutilated. Round it are six lions' heads
,
two on each of the longer sides, and one on the narrower. At each of
the corners is the head of a young ox all in low relief and of fair
execution. The passage in which the stone stands is 112 feet long and
18 feet wide.
The vault on the garden side is upheld by eighteen pillars set in order
in the middle, each of them is thirty-two palms thick, the capitals
are Corinthian: the columns themselves of fair height. They make a kind
of arcade, leaving wide spaces, through which you enter the garden between
one column and the next. The ornaments of the arcades are all broken,
but you can see their style. The inner side is an unbroken wall, and
there are full sixteen feet between it and the columns.
A
door on the left leads into a fine room, which looks newly built, with
six large windows giving a pleasant view of the sea.
It is ninety feet long by thirty-two wide, it has a fine arched vault
supported by fourteen pillars, seven on each of the longer sides, and
is closed at each end by an unbroken wall. There is a curious pulpit.
Two rooms beyond are in ruins.
Then one can mount thirty-six steps to a great passage full of wild
plants, and seventeen more to reach the roof of the great hall, and
again twenty to the top of the convent walls. One sees other rooms,
mostly ruined. The view both towards the sea and landwards is very fine.
I came down to the vestibule of the convent, and then descending on
the left a flight of twentyone steps came to a room thirty-two feet
broad and sixty-six feet long, with a well built vault upheld in the
middle by two pillars, three times the height of a man.

One might fancy it all built five or six years ago. Beyond is another
room of the same style, and outside a little court through which you
pass to the
door of the church. It has a fine entrance gate, with walls adorned
with mosaic fatally damaged. I noticed also a large stone with letters
of so strange a form that I could make out neither words nor sense.
The church, excluding the choir, is about sixty feet long and forty-six
feet broad. In the middle are four
pillars of ordinary stone and of fair height. The walls are adorned
with six or seven ancient paintings. Beyond the choir is another room."
(*)
In "A Voyage to the Levant" the XVIIth century traveller Cornelis
de Bruyn also produced some of the earliest and most accurate
images of the ancient Alexandrian (Egypt) monuments that existed in
the year of his visit in 1680. Cornelis de Bruyn, circa 16521726/27,
Dutch portrait painter and traveller, painted for some years in Italy,
where he was known, in Rome, as Adonis. Bruyn is remembered chiefly
for the records of his extensive travels in Egypt, Persia, India, and
other countries, illustrated with his own designs.
Cornelis de Bruyn: "Voyages
de Corneille Le Bruyn
au Levant, C'est-à-dire, dans les Principaux endroits de l'Asie
mineure, Dans les Isles de Chio, Rhodes, Chypre, &c. De même
que dans les plus confidérables Villes d'Egypte, Syrie, &
Terre Sainte; Enrichi d'un grand nombre de Figures en Taille-Douce ...
le tout dessiné d'après Nature." The Hague, P. Gosse
and J. Neaulme, 1732. 5 volumes. 4to. With 5 titles printed in red and
black, full-page engraved portrait of De Bruyn, 85 engraved plates,
of which 12 folding, 5 folding maps, engraved vignette, tailpieces.
Contemporary half calf, spine richly gilt.
Cornelis
de Bruijn (Cornelius
Le Bruyn) made two extensive journeys to learn about and
report on foreign lands and the people who lived in them. He was trained
as an artist and made hundreds of drawings and paintings of the places,
peoples, flora and fauna he encountered. These works were engraved,
and the plates - including many folding plates - were published in the
volumes in which he described his expeditions. De Bruijn's work
is valued for its accuracy, a feature derived from the fact that he
actually visited the locations and peoples he described and painted,
instead of relying on the sketches and descriptions of others. On his
second expedition, he departed The Hague in 1701, visited Russia, Persia,
and parts of the Dutch East Indies. He returned to The Hague in 1708.
(**) Also read: 'Excerpta
Cypria' by Martoni, an Italian traveller to Cyprus in l394. Materials
for a History of Cyprus, translated by C.D. Cobham, Cambridge, 1908,
reprinted 1969.
Unfortunately the Dutchman
De Bruyn is called a Danish
(!) traveller on a site
of the UN in Cyprus ("The shrine of Hala Sultan Tekke").
More
about Cornelis de Bruyn: "(...) has always been the subject
of drawings and illustrations. However, in spite of its importance
as the focus of prayer and yearning, few of those who drew Jerusalem
had actually visited the city. Cornelis
de Bruyn was an exception; he drew Jerusalem exactly as
he saw it in 1681. Nevertheless, for decades afterwards, cartographers
and artists gave free rein to their imaginations, depicting Jerusalem
as a Byzantine castle or a European fortress. (...)"
More
about Cornelis de Bruyn: "(...) Der sich gegen Ende des
Jahres 1678 in Istanbul befindliche holländische Reisende Cornelis
De Bruyn (Corneille Le Bruyn),
zeichnet in seinem Buch die Kopfbedeckungen der Frauen und beschreibt
diese ausführlich: Wenn Frauen ausser Haus gehen, so tragen
sie neben dem ferace noch etwas anderes, dass wesentlich besser ins
Auge sticht und kirkie bezeichnet wird. (...)"