The Church of St Ours stands in
a commanding position on a long rocky spur that juts out in the direction
of the river Indre. It is in the heart of the fortress of Loches,
once a stronghold of great importance, which, after being fought over
by Philip Augustus and Richard Cur de Lion (the Lionheart),
came into the hands of the kings of France by a deed of purchase signed
by St Louis In 1249 at Damietta in Egypt.
1
- CHURCH HISTORY - There
have been several places of Christian worship In the shelter of the
fortress:
-- In the 5th century St Eustoche
built an oratory dedlcated to St Mary Magdalene.
-- In the 6th century St Ours founded a monastery in a nearby recess
of the hillside, as Gregory of Tours relates In his writings.
-- Between 978 and 985 Geoffrey 1. 'Grisegonelle' (Grey Tunic), Count
of Anjou, the father of Fulk Nerra, built the collegiate church of
Our Lady. There Is probably no vestige of this building left standing
today.
2 - ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY
- Four distinct stages of building operations stretching from the
11th to the 15th centuries are clearly visible. In spite of the uncouth
19th-century restorations, which, however, were badly needed.
-- From the 11th century date the square base of the west porch
tower, the lower parts of the nave walls and parts of the north wall
of the transept.
-- Towards the middle of the 12th century the following were completed:
the chavet, the transept, the crossing tower and the octagonal storey
of the porch tower with the octagonal spire crowning it.
-- During the second half of the 12th century the nave was vaulted
over and a little later the remarkable square porch that forms the
present entrance to the church was built.
The original Romanesque church was aisleless. The south aisle was
built towards the end of the 12th century and the north aisle in the
15th. However, the archways between the nave and the side aisles were
opened only in the 19th century during the restorations. Before that
time the nave communicated with the north and south transepts by two
narrow passages, still existing, at each side of the crossing, which
are called Berrichon passages because they are more often to be found
in Berry than elsewhere.
-- After the French Revolution and at the beginning of the 19th century,
the chapter of the Collegiate Church of Our Lady was dissolved and
the church was named St Ours.
THE TOUR OF THE BUILDING
The Porch:
-- The doorway is majestic in its simplicity. The imposing effect
stems from its setting in the austere frame of the facade without
any embellishment around it and with only a little plain window above
it.
The spacious interior is rib-vaulted and has two windows and two side
doors. The following should be noticed:
1)
In the rlght-hand corner, a Gallo-Roman relic adorned with attractive
carved panels; the top has been hollowed out to make a holy-water
stoup.
2)
On the ribs of the vault and on the capitals in the corners animals
and monsters, geometrical patterns, leaves, palms, a horseman with
a falcon, two birds drinking from the same vessel...
-- The splendid portal stands in front. It was badly defaced In the
Revolution; nevertheless its striking beauty, enhanced by traces of
polychromy, remains apparent. From a little distance away it is possible
to perceive the harmony and balance of the whole composition, which
is bounded at the top by a pointed arch and at the bottom by a round-headed
arch with three orders or rings of mouldings. There is nothing left
of the lowest order of mouldings. The second and third are decorated
with birds, monkeys, hares, bears, mythological monsters, minstrels
and acrobats; in short, the traditional Mirror of Nature and of medieval
life. It is aslo the symbolical figuration of the biblical quality
putting light against darkness, good against evil.
There is a slender statue on each side of the round arch on the right,
St Peter holding the keys, and on the left, an archbishop wearing
the pallium. A little higher, two pairs of columnar statues. one pair
on each side, are no longer identifiable; they are perhaps an Annunciation
and a Visitation, which would not be untraditional.
At the top, set on a horizontal moulding and inside a mock tympanum
is the principal element of the composition. In the centre, the Blessed
Virgin Mary, full face, seated majestically on a kind of tribune,
is holding the Child Jesus in her lap and presenting him to us. The
folds of her dress, still distinctly visible, fall with a gracefulness
that is heightened by the cross sweep of the embroidered edge of her
mantle. On the left, the Magi are bringing their gifts. On the right
is someone who can only be St Joseph. Further to the right, the naive
and touching scene of the Magi asleep all three quietly settled in
the same bed, the counterpane of which is in an almost perfect state
of preservation. Just above we can make out the angel waking them
with his finger and warning them not to return home the same way if
they are to escape the cruel King Herod. The mediaeval artists and
the theologians who guided their hands intended the portal to be an
expression of feellngs of benevolence and evangelical love and, despite
the irreparable damage done to it, it still transmits those sentiments
to many today, filling the porch with a sense of peace and inviting
many to enter the holy place with confidence
The Porch Tower
The porch opens into the tower.
-- The lower storey is a vestibule. It has a barrel vault with flat
transverse ribs set very close together. The decoration of the capitals
though rather crude is not without charm, as, for example, a hunting
scene with two mastiffs at grips with a smaller animal.
-- The upper storey, originally quite closed, was opened up on the
side giving on to the nave when the nave was vaulted. It is a spacious
gallery covered with a vault that has stout ribs intersecting at right
angles. The octagonal storey above, which is crowned with a spire,
was added a century later. The present spire is modern.
The Nave
The nave is composed of two square bays. In the Romanesque period
it had a wooden roof but about 1165 it was vaulted over by Thomas
Pactius, or Thomas of Loches, the prior then in charge of the Collegiate
Church. The walls were altered and strengthened to support seven great
pointed arches. The arches, four of which are set into the walls,
spring from six responds. Flat pendentives at the intersection of
the arches carry the octagonal hollow pyramids that cover the two
bays. This type of vault, highly original and very rare, is called
a 'dube'. Although they have been much criticized from time to time
the 'dubes' now form an integral part of the landscape of Loches and,
moreover, stress the loftiness of the whole structure of the church.
According to several 17th-century writers they were, originally conical,
at least outside, which explains why the Abbé de Baraudin,
Alfred de Vigny's great-uncle, compared them to sugar-loaves.
The Crossing and the Sanctuary
The crossing is vaulted with an octagonal cupola carried by squinches
resting on four great roundheaded arches, which spring from responds
with attached shafts. The corbels on which some of the shafts rest
have representations of stooping people with humble but radiant faces.
The sanctuary consists of one barrel-vaulted bay and a semicircular
apse. The two side chapels are similar.
The Crypt
Under the south apsidal chapel there is a crypt reached by a modern
staircase. It has a barrel vault and a round 15th-century window.
The magnificent 12th century fresco representing St Brice, successor
of St Martin, has been removed from its crypt and put in the chapell
opposite the sacristy.
A message
The Church of St Ours is
something more than a mere historical monument: for many visitors
it carries a message, which anyone who cares to may discover. We must
consider the exterior from the rue Thomas-Pactius or the presbytery
garden close by, or farther away from the eastern ramparts. The church
is an expression of its builders' religious vision: their ecstasy
transformed into stone. It gives us a share in the great adventure
of the life of faith led on this hill of Loches for more than a thousand
years.
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