Historic Background

Twenty one years of history (1168-1189) sufficed for the builders of the fortress and the men who lived within its walls, to leave us with interesting and very impressive remains. In 1168, the Hospitaller Knights purchased these lands from a French noble family named Velos. They built a spectacular fortress which spread over 3 acres and is considered to be one of their greatest architectural achievements. Life here ran along a steady course under the various commanding officers of the Hospitaller Order. Belvoir was free of any battle for over 10 years. But in the 1280's it underwent drastic change and upheaval, when the forces of the famed general Saladin came "knocking at the gates" of the Crusader Kingdom...

In the heavy battles which ensued in the region in the years 1181-1183, the Moslims were unable to penetrate the fortress. Even when the First Crusader Kingdom fell, after their Crushing defeat at Hittin in 1187, the Hospitaller Knights at Belvoir did not surrender and continued holding the fortress during the protracted siege. The Muslims had conquered Jerusalem, the Crusaders' capital, Acre, their largest port-city and their huge fort in Safed. Yet, they did not manage to subdue the Belvoir knights... Only in 1189, having withstood the Arab siege for one-and-a-half years, did the Muslims succeed in undermining the eastern wall of the fortress, and the besieged knights agreed to surrender. This marked the end of the brief history of Belvoir fortress, that earned the name of 'Coquet' (meaning 'dandy' in French), Belvoir or Belvader ('fine view' in French and Latin).

The recommended tour (see site plan on top of this page)

Having entered the site, leave your car in the parking lot and walk along the marked path, which leads to the observation point south east of the fortress (duration about an hour - or as long as you want if you can hear history in the silence around you...)

Observation point (1)

We are standing at the edge of the basalt plateau of Ramat Kochav. Beneath us, some 220 metres below sea level, runs the Jordan River. The site of the fortress was carefully chosen for its strategic position, which enabled control of the road running along the valley. The fortress overlooked the three most important crossings of the river:
- Zinbarry - south of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee)
- Naharayim - then the confluence point of the Jordan and Yarmuk Rivers
- East of Beit She'an
The view from here is spectaculair. To the north, beyond the Kinneret you can see the Golan Heights and Mount Hermon; to the east - the Jordan Valley and Gil'ad Mountains; and to the south - the Gilboa and northern tips of Shomron Mountains.
Before entering the fortress, please note that it actually embodies two concentric forts, an outer one surrounding the inner stronghold.

The Outer Fortress

This fortress included the moat, walls, towers, gates and the covered inner courtyards.

The Moat (2)

The moat was the first obstade with which an attacking army would be confronted as it charged the gates. Here, a 10 m deep and 20 m wide moat surrounded the fortress on the nothern, southern and western flanks and its function was to prevent direct assault on the fortress. On the eastern slope, a huge tower - the "barbican" - was erected. The moat was hewn out of the basalt bedrock, and the stone remowed was used to construct the fortress.

The Main Gate (3)

Lime stones can be seen adorning the wall of the outer gate, distinguishing it from the dark, local basalt stones used in the background. One can still see the doorposts and square grooves, aligned opposite one another in the walls, for the bolts to be properly secured. Note the deliberate use of different stones - the basalt lintel and limestone arch. The harder, basalt rock was used in the more vulnerable areas, while the softer easier-to-use Jimestone was utilized wherever possible. An assaulting army that penetrated the outer gate would have to make its way along a difficult, well protected path, towards the inner gate.

As you climb up the path, note the wall on your left, with the remains of 3 out of the original 7 arrow slits. These carefully sited loopholes demonstrate the excellent planning, which allowed the defenders control over the path and gateway.

The Outer Tower - "Barbican" (4)

Looking to the east, down the mountain slope, notice the remains of a tower. Today it lies in ruins, but it once served as a separate protective unit for the eastern side of the fortress, which had no moat. The massive tower had at least two storeys. The Arabs, who called it "Bashura", succeeded in destroying it in 1189, thus bringing about the surrender of the besieged knights.

The Inner Eastern Gate (5)

This fortffied gate was the last hurdle before entering the fortress. lt was protected by double wooden doors, reinforced with iron and a groove above from which hot oil could be poured onto the assailants. Arrow slits pointing towards the entrance on either side of the gate gave added protection. The groove, hinges and bolts can still be seen.

The Outer Fortress Vaults (6)

Having passed through the gate, we enter a network of corridors - originally covered - which surrounded the inner fortress. This broad southern vault, which probably served as stables and storerooms, is 6-7 m wide. On some of the walis ene can stil] see the edges of the arches that supported the roof. Guards standing en the rooftop, protected the curtain wall.

The Water Cistern and Bathhouse (7)

Several structures within the vaulted area have remained. One of them is a cistern, inside of which one may still see part of the ceiling and plastered walls that prevented evaporation. Rain water drained from the roofs through clay pipes into the cistern. Remains of a bathhouse were discovered close by. (It is important - and interesting - to note that all members of the Crusader Orders were required to shower and shave (!), a rather uncommon demand during that period...)

North Eastern Tower (8)

Enter the tower, and you will be in one of the four corner towers of the outer walL This tower is square and protruded 5 m from the wall, thus enabling excellent control and a good firing range to the moat and the foot of the wall. The tower was built of basalt stones, with its base strengthened by a sloping glacis of smooth-faced masonry, making it difficult to undermine. Since the circumference of the outer walls is 480m, the four corner towers did not suffice in providing full protection, and three extra towers were therefore built in the middle of each flank. As you continue westward you will pass one such tower.

The Courtyard ("Bailey") (9)

Turning left we enter the bailey. This rectangular courtyard separated the inner and outer
fortress. Livestock was probably kept in this courtyard.

The Inner Fortress

This is a 40 x 40m stronghold, with a tower at each of its corners. The keep, also known as the "donjon", served as an independent unit, where the defenders could withstand a siege after the fall of the outer fortress. lt is worth noting that the inner fortress was half a storey taller than the outer fortress, thereby forming a double line of defence, providing extra cover, support and protection to the outer wall.

The Inner Western Gate (10)

This was the main entrance to the keep. It is composed of two sets of gates, a gatehouse and a tower. The gates are built in the 'bent entrance' or hairpin fashion, forcing intruders to make a 90° turn in order to enter. Here too, we note the hinged niches, bolt grooves and arrow slits, all adding protection to the gate. An interesting found here is a decorated stone removed from the ancient synagogue of the nearby Jewish village of Kochav and used as a building stone. It can be seen at the bottom of the doorpost.

Vaults of the Inner Fortress (11)

From the gatehouse we continue to the halls of the keep. Their relatively good state of preservation enables us to imagine how they were used some 800 years ago. In these cool, high-ceilinged rooms, the Crusader knights would sit around a burning fire in the cold month of winter. Some of the rising smoke would pass through the opening in the roof, the rest would disperse in the room and mix with the smell of the burning torches and candles that lit the halls... These barrel vaults were used as living quarters for the garrison, storerooms and dining halls. A kitchen with its three ovens and their flues is easily identifiable in the eastern wing.

The Central Court ("Bailey) (12)

A square, paved courtyard, 22 x 22 m formed the heart of the fortress. The court had its own cistern and wash area. A staircasein its western corner led to the second floor, which was the most important area of the fortress, also called 'donjon'. Lavish buildings which probably served as an assembly hall, living quarters and chamber of the fortress' commander were found here. Particularly impressive are the remains of a chapel built of the delicately chiselled white limestone. Mason marks were left on some of the stones by the artisans. Some statues and reliefs were uncovered in this section of the fortress.

The Inner Corner Tower (13)

Leaving the central court and following the signs, we turn left towards the south-eastern corner tower, which is similar to the other three inner towers. lts dimensïons are 4 x 4 m and it protrudes from the wall. The arrow slits face the courtyard of the outer fortress. A decorated stone on its wall has a Jewish motif and was probably taken from the old synagogue of Kochav.

The Postern (Sally Port) (14)

Walking from the inner fortress towards the bridge, we continue to the south-western corner tower. A hidden staircase within the tower leads down to the moat. These steps and secret opening enabled undetected exit from the fortress during siege. A 'gate' of this sort, known as a 'postern', was used by the defending knights to sally and harass the besieging army.

The Drawbridge (15)

From the postern, the walls seem even more menacing. The height from the bottom of the moat to the top of the walls was over 20 m, which included the 10 m deep moat and the curtain wall with the now absent merlons (dentilations). From here you can see the reconstructed bridge which stands above the moat. The original bridge consisted of two parts; the first was made of stone and was supported by a tall pillar that stood at the centre of the moat - the second was made of wood and could be raised when required or even burnt in times of threat. Metal rings which were part of the lifting mechanism can still be seen.

Exit (16)

Continue walking in the moat until you reach the middle tower, identify its 'secret' entrance and walk upstairs of this postern. Back in the once-vaulted passage, make your way to the bridge and cross it. This is where we leave the fortress. On your way out, note the remains of arches, pillars, and limestone reliefs discovered among the ruins and placed along the path, giving an indication of the splendor and grandeur typical of the Belvoir Fortress.

In 1994, in a novel collaboration between the National Parks Authority and the artist Yigal Tumarkin, a 'statue park*' was prepared at Belvoir, exhibiting works inspired by the fortress.

(*A very personal note: In my opinion this is an almost unforgivable mistake. This so called 'statue park' looks like an old iron dump or a modern battlefield when the ennemies have left. It is defenitely spoiling the view from one part of the Belvoir Castle and should be removed to honour this magnificent fortress itself again. - Hans Doeleman)

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Text and map @ The Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority Publishing, March 2001
Writing: Anat Peled / Editor: Mira Waner / Translation: Mira Waner / Photography in the brochure (available in English on the site): Mira Waner